Chambray, denim’s lighter cousin, had a strong showing on spring runways. Designers from Celine to Thakoon showed this relaxed, true-blue fabric, usually reserved for California cool girls, in tailored suits, dresses, or scrublike silhouettes.
Patterns took a cue from Rubik’s Cube this season, with strong strokes of bubble-gum brights and rich jewel tones creating bold color blocking on shifts, dresses, and tunics.
Traditional Eastern influences abounded this spring. Runways from Haider Ackermann to Dries Van Noten to Reed Krakoff showed elongated tunics and vests paired with loose, cropped pants, Chinese and Japanese prints, and kimono-style wrapping.
INTO THE WILD
Designers indulged their primal instincts far beyond fall’s basic leopard prints. Animal shapes, jungle themes, and feathered skirts proved that fashion’s animal magnetism is still going strong.
Lace was everywhere, but the message was more daring than “doily.” Full-body lace in sophisticated, feminine silhouettes is fresher than anything you’d find in Grandma’s trousseau.
Designers played peekaboo this spring by layering transparent separates over solid underpinnings, with varying levels of modesty
Modern, monochromatic takes on men’s suiting were very visible this season, but classic proportions were abandoned in favor of futuristic cuts at Gareth Pugh, dress suits at Margiela, and fluid satin shapes at Bottega Veneta.
Retro bohemian staples like peasant blouses, floor-grazing skirts, and wide-leg trousers reminiscent of Ali McGraw in Love Story carried collections from Etro to Salvatore Ferragamo. This is the new bohemia: cleaner, crisper, and much sleeker than its flower-child predecessors.
Tomboy toughness was translated across a very broad spectrum: Masculine met feminine at Balenciaga, while Balmain got a little grittier and more deconstructed.
Houses from Christian Dior to Miu Miu engaged in pattern play for spring. These hypnotic geometries and watercolor blooms would look great as wallpaper—but they’re anything but wallflowers.
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