Tuesday, March 29, 2011
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Friday, March 18, 2011
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Perhaps there’s something to be said for not trying too hard. Sometimes it’s okay to allow a pretty vintage-style forties crepe dress, which has a yoke neckline, a flower print, and maybe a bow going on somewhere in the hip zone to form the basis of an entire collection. As a centerpiece of Miu Miu for fall—repeated in many plain or embroidered variations (dandelion clocks and lily of the valley), it was completely in line with the spirit of the thirties pajama suits and dresses in the spring collection. This is exactly the kind of thing Miu Miu customers love, so why mess with success?
Wednesday, March 16, 2011
Friday, March 11, 2011
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
Denim is a rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two (twi- "double") or more warp threads. This produces the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric, which distinguishes denim from cotton duck. Denim has been in American usage since the late 18th century. The word comes from the name of a sturdy fabric called serge, originally made in Nîmes, France, by the André family. Originally calledserge de Nîmes, the name was soon shortened to denim. Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue "jeans", though "jean" then denoted a different, lighter cotton textile; the contemporary use of jean comes from the French word for Genoa, Italy (Gênes), where the first denim trousers were made.
"The world is a dark place," acknowledged Karl Lagerfeld after the latest Chanel spectacle, which took place amid a fog-shrouded forest on a bed of still-smoldering scorched earth. There was some of the apocalyptic grandeur of German artists Caspar David Friedrich and Anselm Kiefer, and a bit more of the post-apocalyptic grit of Cormac McCarthy's The Road, but, as Lagerfeld himself noted, the models walked into and out of huge glowing squares of white light at each end of the catwalk. And isn't going into the light usually the way out of the dark place? At least it was in Poltergeist.
Monday, March 7, 2011
Sunday, March 6, 2011
Jean Paul Gaultier's message tonight: You're never too old for a little striptease. Out first was the fortysomething French comedian Valérie Lemercier with a bouffant 'do that aged her another good 20 years. About halfway down the runway, she peeled off her scarf and tossed it into the second row. Wearing silvery beehive wigs, the models followed her lead, throwing their trenches and bouclé jackets—those trappings of the Parisian bourgeoisie—into a pile in front of the photographers.
Saturday, March 5, 2011
If Donatella Versace brought it all back home to Via Gesù for her men's show in June, it was always going to be the women's show that really underscored her refreshed commitment to the heritage of the house. Guests who remembered skirting security at this very location in her brother Gianni's heyday were positively misty-eyed when they walked into the tented garden where today's presentation took place. And, in keeping with her recent confident exploration of the family archive, Donatella plucked one of the most graphic elements from Versace's past to mark this watershed moment. But she did it her way. The baroque curlicues that were once a house signature were blown up into a single boldly colored detail—a vine, a flower—and dropped onto a shift in black wool crepe. It was simple and strong, exactly what Donatella wanted.
Coincidence is a bitch. Outside the Diorshow today, copies of the Herald Tribunewere being distributed in a long-planned fashion week wraparound advertising Dior Addict Lipstick. Not the best time or place to be reinforcing the catastrophic career implosion of disgraced and dismissed Dior designer John Galliano. Inside the tent erected in the gardens of the Musée Rodin, the set—a chandeliered salon—was prime Galliano, but its silveriness now looked haunted rather than chic. And when the lights went down, a more-than-expectant hush fell over the huge crowd. (So much for the rumors of boycott.)